Is it possible to change the cam adjuster without removing the timing belt?
#1
02-12-2010, 01:50 PM
Is it possible to change the cam adjuster without removing the timing belt?
The patient: 2000 Audi A6 Quattro 4.2l v8 non turbo, 120K miles
Mine has a chain rattle type sound. But only when I tap the gas (press and release pedal quickly).b The RPM's go up to 2500 and when the engine settles to idle you hear a chain type rattle for a split second. Idles normal. Sounds like theres an exhaust leak somewhere...but there is no leak.
On cold start up, the engine does rattle a second. But I hear it's normal. What is not normal is the slight chain rattle sound coming from the front driver side bank. right underneath where I pinpointed the sound is the cam tensioner.
I removed both valve covers to check their conditions. The guides look normal and intact. There is no visible damage. The chains don't feel loose. I wiggled them with my fingers. They are pretty tight.
I have been driving like this for almost two years. The short Chain rattle sound comes when you let your foot off the gas and car returns to idle...that is exactly when you hear it for a split second before engine idles at about 1000 rpm.
It drives me crazy. Does it hot or cold. No engine codes. Car drives normal. So is there any way I can be sure the cam shaft adjuster is bad? It is mechanical from what I understand. It is operated by a solenoid.. And is there a way to swap out the tensioner assembly without removing the entire front end and timing components? Bently manual says to remove the engine. **** that! my mother will do it. How ******* easy Bently makes it sound. First step: Remove engine, Second step: remove toothed belt and components. I just installed a new timing belt and sold my camshaft locking tool afterwards. I don't want to buy more expensive parts and tools if it is not necessary. Has anyone ever swapped a tensioner out from the driver side without removing the entire face of the car and engine timing belt? Is there a Do it yourself write up on the web? please point me in the right direction. finally...where can I buy a Chain adjuster/tensioner for less than $800 bucks the dealer is selling me.
Mine has a chain rattle type sound. But only when I tap the gas (press and release pedal quickly).b The RPM's go up to 2500 and when the engine settles to idle you hear a chain type rattle for a split second. Idles normal. Sounds like theres an exhaust leak somewhere...but there is no leak.
On cold start up, the engine does rattle a second. But I hear it's normal. What is not normal is the slight chain rattle sound coming from the front driver side bank. right underneath where I pinpointed the sound is the cam tensioner.
I removed both valve covers to check their conditions. The guides look normal and intact. There is no visible damage. The chains don't feel loose. I wiggled them with my fingers. They are pretty tight.
I have been driving like this for almost two years. The short Chain rattle sound comes when you let your foot off the gas and car returns to idle...that is exactly when you hear it for a split second before engine idles at about 1000 rpm.
It drives me crazy. Does it hot or cold. No engine codes. Car drives normal. So is there any way I can be sure the cam shaft adjuster is bad? It is mechanical from what I understand. It is operated by a solenoid.. And is there a way to swap out the tensioner assembly without removing the entire front end and timing components? Bently manual says to remove the engine. **** that! my mother will do it. How ******* easy Bently makes it sound. First step: Remove engine, Second step: remove toothed belt and components. I just installed a new timing belt and sold my camshaft locking tool afterwards. I don't want to buy more expensive parts and tools if it is not necessary. Has anyone ever swapped a tensioner out from the driver side without removing the entire face of the car and engine timing belt? Is there a Do it yourself write up on the web? please point me in the right direction. finally...where can I buy a Chain adjuster/tensioner for less than $800 bucks the dealer is selling me.
#2
02-12-2010, 02:52 PM
Cam Adjuster
Hi,
I don't know of any way of removing the cam chain tensioner without putting the front clip in the service position and removing the timing belt and cam spockets. But if you're shopping for a replacement tensioner, I included a link for a merchant selling them at a lower price than the dealer. Still not cheap at over $550 each.
Good luck with the car.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...hain+Tensioner)
I don't know of any way of removing the cam chain tensioner without putting the front clip in the service position and removing the timing belt and cam spockets. But if you're shopping for a replacement tensioner, I included a link for a merchant selling them at a lower price than the dealer. Still not cheap at over $550 each.
Good luck with the car.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...hain+Tensioner)
Last edited by TwinTurboC5; 02-12-2010 at 02:54 PM.
#3
02-12-2010, 03:10 PM
Here is a DIY.
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=112177
And you do NOT need to remove the timing belt. Read the thread.
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=112177
And you do NOT need to remove the timing belt. Read the thread.
#4
02-14-2010, 03:29 PM
Here is a DIY.
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=112177
And you do NOT need to remove the timing belt. Read the thread.
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=112177
And you do NOT need to remove the timing belt. Read the thread.
The problem with that DIY write up is that my cam sprocket on the driver's side is bolted directly infront of the tensioner. The DIY shows a cam tensioner on the opposite side of the camshaft sprocket, opposite of the cam sprocket. I don't understand if the belt tension (there will be tension) will be a problem when I remove the bearing caps. It looks like I will have a nice saturday ******* around with this small part. Looks like I will have to bite the bullet with the cost of the tensioner and the cam locking tools and such. I checked everywhere online and it looks like a dealer only item. Is there a place online to buy a new one for cheaper? The link does not show any in stock
#5
02-14-2010, 03:49 PM
My bentley manual on DVD shows a chain on the oil pump. It looks easy to swap out. The oil pump looks like it also has a tensioner.
The car does rattle upon cold start. If there a way to check oil pressure? or proper fucntioning of the oil pump? My guages only mark oil temp.
I am still baffled with the mysterious tiny chain rattle coming from the front top end. Dont know where to start
The car does rattle upon cold start. If there a way to check oil pressure? or proper fucntioning of the oil pump? My guages only mark oil temp.
I am still baffled with the mysterious tiny chain rattle coming from the front top end. Dont know where to start
#6
02-15-2010, 12:52 AM
Did you already change the tensioner? You can still do it like in my DIY, just clamp the belt with the channel lock, then unbolt the cam sprocket and let it hang over the radiator with the belt still on it, it won't change the timing.
You can check the oil pressure by removing the oil pressure sender on the back of the oil cooler and thread in a oil pressure tool. Its kind of a pain in the butt to get at on the V motors though, you'll see......
You can check the oil pressure by removing the oil pressure sender on the back of the oil cooler and thread in a oil pressure tool. Its kind of a pain in the butt to get at on the V motors though, you'll see......
#7
02-15-2010, 01:57 PM
Did you already change the tensioner? You can still do it like in my DIY, just clamp the belt with the channel lock, then unbolt the cam sprocket and let it hang over the radiator with the belt still on it, it won't change the timing.
You can check the oil pressure by removing the oil pressure sender on the back of the oil cooler and thread in a oil pressure tool. Its kind of a pain in the butt to get at on the V motors though, you'll see......
You can check the oil pressure by removing the oil pressure sender on the back of the oil cooler and thread in a oil pressure tool. Its kind of a pain in the butt to get at on the V motors though, you'll see......
#8
02-16-2010, 01:04 AM
It does work, i have done it. Many many many times. I think only once i had to relieve the tension on the hydraulic tensioner by using my ratchet and an allan socket, once its turned back you just insert a pin in the hole (you will see it) to hold the tensioner down. This will give you more than enough slack in the belt to complete the job if you find it hard to get the sprocket back on. There is a specific pin you can buy from audi, but thats not needed, you can use a big *** paper clip or a super thin punch works too.
#9
02-16-2010, 01:04 AM
Oh BTW, you can buy cam tensioners in the $600 range from ecstuning and puremotorsports brand new.
#10
02-16-2010, 08:33 AM
Auditech,
I still don't see that this will work properly. When he pulls the cam sproket off the cam, he loses the relationship between the cam and the cam sprocket, which sets the cam timing to the crank. If he then removes the cam, replaces the tensioner then puts the cams back in place, even if he is really careful, how does he make sure that the cam to cam gear timing is correct and not just close enough? Normally, the cam bar would set the cam timing to the crank and then you put the belt on where ever it goes and tighten it down to lock in the timing. How does he do this without the cam tool? It doesn't take much for the cams to be off enough to feel.
Bob
I still don't see that this will work properly. When he pulls the cam sproket off the cam, he loses the relationship between the cam and the cam sprocket, which sets the cam timing to the crank. If he then removes the cam, replaces the tensioner then puts the cams back in place, even if he is really careful, how does he make sure that the cam to cam gear timing is correct and not just close enough? Normally, the cam bar would set the cam timing to the crank and then you put the belt on where ever it goes and tighten it down to lock in the timing. How does he do this without the cam tool? It doesn't take much for the cams to be off enough to feel.
Bob