I rebuilt my tranny myself. It was the most interesting job I have ever done. Spent like $600 bucks so far and alot of degreaser and diseal fuel to clean, clean and clean some more. My transmission had the clutch pack "B" burnt out almost to the metal. This was causing it to slip on fourth and fifth gear. The car would go into limp mode and I would get the code P0734 4th gear ratio incorrect. I suspect that the converter clutch was bad and caused cluth pack "B" to burn up. Everything else in the tranny looked brand new for a transmission with 113K miles. The original oil was tar black. The clutch materials were stuck to the magnets. I was going to buy Audi ATF, but that crap is expensive! I am not paying $300 for oil from Germany or Blau-fart.com
LOL I read tons and tons of the infamous oil saga....to put diffrent oil or not to put diffrent oil. I made up my mind. I went to Super Walmart and bought Mobile 1 fully synthetic Automatic transmission Fluid. The container says it is compatible and way better that the oil audi sells it's suckers at $14 a quart.

I suspect that alot of problems with other people's transmissions was that they are mixing oils, causing seals to sponge up or shrink and break. If a transmission's seals and rubbers and metal parts are use to years of a certain type of fluid, changing it may have caused these problems and nightmares people are writting about. But in my case, everything if very clean. I installed new seals, gaskets, friction plates, and a new torque converter is on the way(I hope these bastards didn't put that esso crap in the torque converter).

I will stock it with Mobil 1. If this oil was bad for our Audi trannys, then why would they put it on the container alongside, BMW, Mecedes, and so on? They would get a huge lawsuit and have to repair thousands, of transmissions! Makes sense?

Is this oild dilemma solved yet?

 

I'm interested in the challenges you faced rebuilding your transmission on your own. I've always worked on my own cars, but about the only thing I haven't ever done is rebuild a transmission or differential. I did rebuild the end clutch on a Mitsubishi tranny, but that didn't require pulling out it's innards.
What manual did you use? Where did you get it?
Where did you get your rebuild kit?
Did you need any special tools? I have a pretty good range of tools, but I don't have anything for pressing bearings together for instance. Any of that needed?
I'm assuming you had to pull the Tranny out and rebuild it on the bench?

Two days ago out of the blue with absolutely no warning whatsoever, I got a P0730 code "Incorrect Gear Ratio" and my 99 A8 Quattro 4.2L goes into limp-in mode (3rd gear?). It's only got 70,000 miles on it, and I replaced the tranny filter and ATF at 50,000 miles.

I really think it's the Engine Speed Sensor (got a bunch of codes related to that also) but I haven't had time to do any diagnosis. Just drive my Jeep for now. But in case it really is the Tranny, I would rather rebuild it myself than pay to have the Dealer screw it up.

Kudos to you on rebuilding it yourself.

 

I buy my transmission rebuild kits from TRANSTAR INDUSTRIES INC. The website is here... www.transtarindustries.com

Check, they may have one near your house, you never know. This is where most transmission repair shops get parts. Then they stick it to you for $3800 bucks or more. The parts of your ZF transmission are dirt cheap $550 bucks total for the whole rebuild kit. Unless you just want to fix one little thing and put it back in. In my opinion, the hardest part was taking it off and CLEANING! You have to buy 5 gallans of degreaser and clean alot of **** especially the carrier underneath. Once everything is clean (tools included) it makes the job so much easier. Everything is nice and clean and organized. Buy a big box of disposable rubber gloves too.

If you need Audi Parts (of any kind) there are several Audi-only salvage yards, but my favorite is SHOKAN Coachworks www.shokan.com


If you need a transmission repair manual for your specific Audi Transmission, you can get it at Automatic Transmission Service Group (ATSG) website is here... www.atsg.com . I have the ZF5HP24A (the letter "A" is for all wheel drive, don't confuse it ) book and I don't need it anymore. It was the best manual I ever seen with good photographs and very simple procedures to dissasemble and reinstall. There was so many little parts and washers and bearrings that I had no clue how they went back in, and the manual shows you clearly and flawlessly.


I have repaired other foreign vehicles in my life, but never an Audi Trany. It is was out on the floor in two days, and I took it apart to inspect the damage. I took the tranny apart CAREFULLY, following step by step instructions.It was a pain in the *** removing the ATF Oil Supply assembly without the Audi shop tool they illustrate. I used a vice grip pliers and a dent puller and hammered it out without a scratch! Flawless! I should have been an engineer my wife said. I had to improvise also with the removal of the clutch pistons to replace the seals.
You don't have to do this if your tranny parts look new and has low mileage, but I did all this work and just don't want to take a chance on a 5 cent rubber ring seal.
By the way, all the parts inside look new. The culprit was clutch pack "B" . That's what they call it in the manual. All the friction plates in clutch pack "B" (6) were burnt almost to the metal. Lucky thing I stopped driving it or it would have been metal to metal grinding going on to destroy more parts. The online subscrition manual goes on to explain that if you are slipping on fourth or fifth gear(doesn't matter), then your converter clutch (integrated with the converter -built in) is failing, causing Clutch pack "B" to overheat. This is probably what is making the transmission control module go into fail safe mode and the car free revs in drive until you shut it off (limp Mode). Don't ask me how that works, I just pulled the clutches apart to inspect them, and the gosh darn manual was right on the money! clutch "b" cylinder looks black and all the friction plates were scorched. So, I need a new torque converter $109 bucks at DACCO of detroit in Orlando(incase you want to buy one) the dealer has them for $1100 bucks(bastards) no one else carries converters in our national chains. And you sure as hell don't want to buy a used one... So, the master rebuild kit cost me $550 bucks, plus I'm changing the oil to Mobil 1 fully synthetic ATF(which is way cheaper, and I can get it at Wal-mart for crying out loud(compared to the dealer's Esso LT 71141 oil).
I will restock it with this ATF Oil. I'm not spending $300 on oil from Germany, when clearly everyone is saying in forums that Audi/Volkswagens/Bmw oil is Dexron IID(worse than Dexron III).

Here is the Mobil website if you want to compare specs. They say their oil exceeds and out performs Audi's. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...thetic_ATF.asp

It looks easy to rebuild, You just need alot a patience, Good spec manuals. plenty of room, clean organized area, about three weeks (take your time), an engine hoist $200 at advance auto because you have to support the engine while you remove the entire subframe, lots of desel and degreaser, four jack stands, and two hydraulic jacks(to put it back in I used two Hydaulic jacks and three men to wiggle that monster in and get a bolt started- 15 minutes and alot of muscle) the rest of the work I did myself,It took 4 days little by little putting stuff back in. I am slow, maybe you can do it faster. Oh and you have to have air tools, this really helps. You need torx sockets(these cars use alot of specialty tools, but I improvised) hex sockets, swivels, twelve point torx driver, (to remove the front drive shafts). I already have all these tools because I fix cars and have bought them over the years. But, it is not expensive at all. Compared to $3800 or more at a shop.

Study the manual first. Go over the proceedures in your mind for a day or two. study, all the details, and act the part in your mind. Think about how expensive it will be to tow it to the shop and have them fix it. hopefully you will be motivated like me to drop that tranny and fix it yourself!. Audi maintains value in the market place, it is worth fixing because they are built well. I feel so good and confident now. I can drive this car to Alaska without doubts because I know what's in there. I also changed the oil from Audi's expensive ESSO life time oil(bull **** it was black and dirty), to Mobile 1 synthetic ATF. It it running smooth, I love the power it has now. It shifts flawlessly. You do not have to spend $600 dollars on everything in there, Just buy the frictions and fix what ever clutch pack is burnt out. I noticed that I was taking out seals and they looked new, I was doing double work. It was not neccesary in my case to take every little thing apart and change all those pain in the *** seals and berrings. They look new. It would have been a $50 job if I just bought clutch B frictions and definately have your converter rebuilt or buy a rebuilt one. New ones cost too much. The converter was what caused my problem in my ZF5HP24A

Good luck my friend.

 

I have a 2001 A6 4.2L and i want to change the ATF and the filter. The ATF recommended for this tranny is Audi Part number G052162A2 but the Mobil 1 synthetic is equivalent to the following part numbers: G 052 025-A2, G 052 162-A1. Does anyone know what is the difference between the A1 and A2 and if the Mobil ATF is ok. Thank you

 

What part of the country do you live in? I am having a problem with reverse gear on my 2000 Audi A6Q 4.2L V8. I was thinking also to tackle the rebuilt job myself or with someone's help.

 

Diablo, I've seen it posted that the dif between A1 and A2 is package size
The key is the fluid you choose must be "Esso LT 71141" spec
Nice thing about Mobil is that it meets the higher ZF spec for commercial truck transmissions of 14B.
Pentosin, Esso (VW/Audi) do not.

Mobil also has a semi-synthetic version to the same spec.
I'm not sure, but I believe the difference may be the longevity.
I suspect that both versions could outlive the transmission though. No matter what fluid you use, by 150K you will have contamination from the clutch material.

 

I'm just finishing my rebuild, here's a photo of broken part off my trans. 259.00 from D&E automotive.

 

Dude! Thank you very much for this info. I'm thinking of tackling this myself.