Rear caliper (still) frozen / stuck in
#1
Rear caliper (still) frozen / stuck in
First the ride info:
2000 A4 quattro, 2.8 V6, manual transmission
So my brake pads went in the rear and I went to replace them. Job went smooth but I noticed that on the drivers side, the brake pad on the inside was way more worn than the outside pad. Fairly common, but the different was significant. So after replacing the pads I went for a spin, and the drivers side caliper is pressing on the pad and wont let go.
So I then replaced the capiler on that side and bled the brakes. Again, job went fine without any problems. Took the car out, and the damn caliper is still pressing on the pad.
Sicne it obviously isn't the caliper, could this be the emergency brake being locked into place? This is my first Audi/German-car so I'm not too familiar with it.
I'm going to get the car in the air again tomorrow but I'd like to know what you all think so I have a few places to look. Can I disconnect my emergency brake? I know I won't have use of it, but I need my car to be drivable until I can resolve the issue completely.
2000 A4 quattro, 2.8 V6, manual transmission
So my brake pads went in the rear and I went to replace them. Job went smooth but I noticed that on the drivers side, the brake pad on the inside was way more worn than the outside pad. Fairly common, but the different was significant. So after replacing the pads I went for a spin, and the drivers side caliper is pressing on the pad and wont let go.
So I then replaced the capiler on that side and bled the brakes. Again, job went fine without any problems. Took the car out, and the damn caliper is still pressing on the pad.
Sicne it obviously isn't the caliper, could this be the emergency brake being locked into place? This is my first Audi/German-car so I'm not too familiar with it.
I'm going to get the car in the air again tomorrow but I'd like to know what you all think so I have a few places to look. Can I disconnect my emergency brake? I know I won't have use of it, but I need my car to be drivable until I can resolve the issue completely.
#5
The pads are supposed to stay flat against the rotor at all times. If they seperated from the rotor they would be lose and slide around. As long as you can spin the rotor freely by hand then it's fine. Do you feel drag on the engine when driving as if the e brake is on?
#6
When you pushed the piston in, did you use the special tool that rotates it while pressing it in? I'm thinking that if you did not turn it while pressing it back in, maybe it became damaged.
Like the post above said, jack up that wheel and see if you can turn it by hand.
Like the post above said, jack up that wheel and see if you can turn it by hand.
#7
Yes, the brakes are dragging as if the brake is on. I took apart the entire assembly and am replacing the rotor now. I bled the brakes and yes, I retracted the caliper piston properly (turning clockwise wise compressing). I am going to re-assemble once it stops raining and try again. Although I have a feeling the caliper will still be constantly pushing in (my original problem). Oh, and I checked the e-brake, that is working fine.
I don't understand why this is happening since the brake system is relatively simple.
I don't understand why this is happening since the brake system is relatively simple.
#8
take it back apart and grind / sand the slider pins down smoothly to get the rust off of them, grease them up, make sure they move smoothly so they will "release" when brakes are released, and you will be good to go.
#9
Update - fixed
You were right hartsoe1. The bottom pin was frozen. Took off the bracket/hanger they are on and had to torch it to get it un-stuck. Sanded it down, cleaned up the rubber boot, lubed it up, and put it all back together and it's working great.
I would recommend to anyone who is changing their brakes (even just their pads), pull out the pins and give them a good once over. Takes 5 minutes (if they aren't completely siezed) to clean them up.
You were right hartsoe1. The bottom pin was frozen. Took off the bracket/hanger they are on and had to torch it to get it un-stuck. Sanded it down, cleaned up the rubber boot, lubed it up, and put it all back together and it's working great.
I would recommend to anyone who is changing their brakes (even just their pads), pull out the pins and give them a good once over. Takes 5 minutes (if they aren't completely siezed) to clean them up.
#10
Ok, so Im a new comer to "do it yourself" car repairs, i have the exact same problem with the same caliper but its my outside pad that is rubbing, it ruins my cabin with noise and is getting brake dust all over my rims, is there anything i should know before messing around with my brakes/ any tools that should come in handy ( you mentioned a torch? )
Thanks guys
Thanks guys